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Part 6. Dress and design of the cut

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This is the first tutorial where we begin to design a cut, according to your own peace. Why actually draw your own cut? Very often it happens that we make a cut does not sit on his shoulders, he can be narrow on his chest and big at the waist. Therefore, they are designed custom cuts to have a perfectly fitting garment. Actual custom cut is quite complex for beginners, so we try our best simplify. Another important part of the sewing according to the cut is subsequent testing. Not always you will be able to draw, cut and cut your garment so that you immediately he was sitting perfectly. It is important to have patience, we have to get the parts first, try, and any changes - to repair or narrow down the partitions, and then again carefully skip and try.

We need a long ruler, triangle for perpendicular drawing, editing paper. We need to measure a few basic body dimensions. Neck circumference - ok The circumference of the chest - oh - we measure the line across the breast so that it does not fall for us lower back than we are in front. If the meter on the back falls below, the rate is smaller. If you are measuring yourself, measure yourself in front of the mirror. Waist circumference - op Circumferential measures are measured over two fingers for freedom The back length - DZ - is measured on the back from the 7th cervical vertebra to the waist Shoulder length - DR - we measure the width of the shoulder from the imaginary line of the neck where we are measured the circumference of the neck, towards the end of the shoulder, where our shoulder falls down into the arm and where we feel the shoulder joint. At this top of the shoulder we usually have a seam sewing sleeve. Breast height - VP - this size will seem strange at first, but since each character is different, this is important. We measure again from the neck line to breast tip - the nipple you want. Breast width - sp - spine tip spans - nipple spine. Circle rates divide 2 because the cut is always drawn in half. As the fabric we are looking at is folded halfway across the face, and we think cut into two layers of fabric, so cut double, so we cut out right at once, but also the left-hand half-body of the mirror. We begin to cut the cut from the back, gradually into the front, from the left transport. Editing: Do not straighten right from the edges of cutting paper. In the upper left region make a point, (about 3cm from the top, 3cm from the left edge) 1) From this point, draw a straight line along the left edge of the shear paper, long exact measured length of the back. This creates a straight line showing the center of the rear part.

[# 100 Picture: vs_1]

2) From this point, draw a vertical line along the top edge cutting paper horizontally, long 0.5 width of back + 1cm, the neck is created line.

[# 101 Picture: vs_2]

3) At the back length, measure 0.5 of the length of the back, and point to it perpendicularly long to the second half of the cutting paper. 0.5 width back + 1cm measure on the bottom line and join points.

[# 102 Picture: Drawing_3]

4) We will measure half of the rear center seam on a line in the middle of the back OH plus 1cm. 0.5 oh + 1 (be careful, half of the half), and from this point run down vertically. There is an imaginary side seam.

[# 103 Picture: drawing_4]

5) From the side seam again draw the point in the front part, this time to 0.5 oh add 2cm, ie 0.5 oh + 2cm. A center seam of the front part is formed, by guiding the vertical vertically down through the entire length of the back.

[# 104 Picture: drawing_5]

6) Align all vertical perpendiculars with a horizontal line perpendicular to the vertical lines in the measured length of the back. This will give us a passport line.

[# 105 Picture: drawing_6]

7) On neck neckline from center seam, we measure 0.25 neck circumference +1 cm, and from this point measure 1.5 cm above the neck line of the neck.

[# 106 Picture: drawing_7]

8) From the elevated cervix, measure the width of the shoulder so that the 0.5 the width of the shoulder crossed the neck line, and we follow a straight line from above an increase in the direction of the neck line, the shoulder-to-shoulder width is created. The increase in the neck is different for each character. It is important to keep track of how your shoulders are equal, whether they are more reduced and more inclined. If the shoulders are more straight, the increase of the neck is measured approximately 1-1.5cm, if the shoulders are sloping, increase neck is about 2cm. But everything can be tested and if not the blades sit exactly, everything can be repaired.

[# 107 Picture: drawing_8]

9) We measure 10 cm after the center seam from the cervix, from the edge shoulder straps and 10 cm from the shoulder, connect the points to create a rear seat the piece into which we will make up a warehouse for freedom of movement. These saddles and warehouses also form a decorative element. It does not always take up the seat just fold into the fold, but evenly fold over the entire width of the saddle. AND now we can shape the bracelet. From the end of the rear rim vertically downward, we begin to shape the neckline on the back. Which will bring us closer to the line of half the width of the back, and the more we shape it, to the horizontal half of the length of the back, the more we round it to the side seam.

[# 108 Picture: drawing_9]

10) From the measured 10 cm for the saddle we measure 2cm for freedom of back and for folding the fold, and expanding the back by 2 cm.

[# 109 Picture: drawing_10]

11) Measure the metric of the size from the cervix to the waist and this measured we cut the dimension to the cut. From bottom, top to front neckline.

[# 110 Picture: drawing_11]

12) Increase the cervical line of the front part by 4 cm, again as with the ZD increase we follow the shape of the shoulders. The more straight the shoulders, the lower the increase, about 3 cm.

[# 111 Picture: drawing_12]

13) We measure from the center of the PD line 0.25 cm + 1 cm on the neckline and shape arc to point 15. This gives us a front neckline - a neck hole.

[# 112 Picture: drawing_13]

14) We measure from the center of the PD 0.5 oh + 2 cm and draw the front line

  • a hole for a hand.

[# 113 Picture: drawing_14]